Alpine climbing in the Dolomites. Local mountain guide from Italy
Alpine climbing with a UIAA italian mountain guide in the Dolomites has been a tradition since the beginning of tourism.
At first, well-heeled travellers and adventurers hired local shepherds and poachers to climb unconquered peaks. For this reason, today the names of the mountain peaks still tell of the first climbers. Over time, the mountain guides became more professional. Side by side with the evolution of equipment, notorious ascent routes became great classics of the alpine history of the Dolomites. Now there are countless ascents of every difficulty and length.
As you will be the second one in the rope, then as now, you can safely enjoy your ascent. A Dolomite holiday without the alpine climbing day is like a wonderful cake but without whipped cream!
I can provide missing climbing equipment. Further information under contact and prices.
Santner - Glanwell
The climbing tour “Wolf of Glanwell” is the easiest and for beginners the most enjoyable way to climb the landmark of South Tyrol.
Past the Schlernboden hut we expect 20 minutes walk to the entrance.
Inconspicuously we climb and climb higher in the easy terrain. Really thick forged rings from earlier times form our belaying points and protections. Climbing around the corner, we reach the north side and the canal that stretches out. Subjectively protected, we follow the logical path for a few pitches until we reach the mountain pine field. Here is the ideal point for a break. The higher we climb, the better the rock, indeed the entire climb. We are now on the northeast ridge and the climb is easy. Schwupp, immediately we pass briefly the yawning void and have climbed past the famous phone, the key passage. A few more pitches and the summit is reached. While we let the views wander we enjoy the snack! The entire high plateau with Fiè allo Sciliar, Siusi allo Sciliar and Castelrotto with the Alpe di Siusi lies below us. What a view.
After resting on the summit, we choose the path of the first climber “Johann Santner” for the descent. 18 descents await us. Don’t worry, as a mountain guide I know the way and can give you assistance. Lean back comfortably, I’ll do the rest until we get back to the entry path and turn right towards Schlernboden.
The traverse is successful. In other words, nothing stands in the way of coffee.
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Kaminführe 1. Sellaturm
It is precisely because of the short approach and easy climbing that the Kaminführe on the 1st Sella Tower is a classic. Consequently, it is the route for beginners to the alpine climbing world. When the rock is at its best, people start climbing the south face already in spring. Finally, the Sella Towers are a worthwhile destination. After the successful alpine climbing, sometimes even the summit of the 2nd Sella tower can be added. The descent here is not difficult via the normal route.
I never tire of the pleasure of admiring clients after the challenge passed, their courage at the summit.
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Fünffinger peak. The beginner route
The Fünffingerspitze is a classic, often climbed route, in the Dolomites in Italy. We climbers find here steep but at the same time grippy and best rock. This does not mean that the climbing route is not suitable for beginners. On the contrary, the approach with the cable car shortens the climb completely and the route is suitable for both beginners and advanced climbers. The summit panorama is unparalleled. Climbing heart, what more do you want.
As an alternative, the crossing over the so-called thumb can also be considered.
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Sasso lungo 3181m. The highest in the western Dolomites
An immense Dolomite panorama overwhelms us alpinists during the entire ascent to the Sassolungo. First at the Toni Demetz hut, then at the glacier basin and third, of course, at the summit.
The climb to the is suitable for fit people and can be climbed with approach shoes. The Sassolungo has a tremendous memory potential. The climb to the symbol of the Val Gardena is not to be underestimated less in the alpine climbing difficulty than more in its length. Nevertheless, guided by a local mountain guide who knows the way, it is a truly lasting experience.
The entrance to the Fassaner Band, the entrance to the peak of Sasso lungo, is clearly visible below the Toni Demetz Hut. Here the warm-up round takes place immediately in easy climbing. Always ascending and climbing in the I° to III° UIAA grade we enjoy this tremendous Dolomite panorama.
Once past the short via ferrata, the view soon falls into the glacier basin filled with snow and ice. Time for a sip of water and a panoramic view. The ascent along the ridge of the so-called “ice gully” awaits us climbers! We are offered solid, brilliant rock and short pitches. They represent what comes to mind when we hear the term dolomite climbing. Passing the next via ferrata, the amphitheater fills our eyes. The view falls on the Alpe di Siusi. Above us, the mountain guide gully now allows us to continue towards the bivouac.
Arrived at the summit ridge of the Sassolungo, the view now also falls to the east into the Central Dolomites. Far away we can hear the bustle of the Val Gardena valley. Having climbed the short key passage on the yellow tower, the way to the highest point is now free. With the crossing of the easy ridge, the ascent is also completed for us alpinists. The highest point on the Langkofel Normalweg offers space for a rest. Now also my name can be entered in the summit book!
The view from the Sassolungo with its 3181m height offers a panoramic view over large parts of the Dolomites up to the Ortler. The way back takes place over the way of the ascent. Which ends with a lift ride down to the valley. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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