Mount Ortler Normal Route (3905m)
Climbing the hightest mountain of South Tyrol. High alpine tour with overnight stay
The Ortler normal route on South Tyorls highest mountain is one of the most polular high alpine routes in the Eastern Alps and graded PD+.
Accompanied by a mountain guide, this tour certainly brings satisfaction and despite of a challenging ascent, it is also feasible for fit beginners. In short, the Ortler normal route attracts with a mix of easy rock climbing, ridge walks, steep upswings in the ice but also an easy final hike on the summit plateau to the summit cross.
I will take you on the rope directly from the Julius-Payer-Hütte (overnight stay). Well prepared, soon an easy climb awaits us. Once we reach the first ridge crest, we catch a glimpse of the increasing daylight and in a little while we will be able to switch off our headlamps. Life in the valley awakens.
Following further the ascent path, we reach a short, steep but easy via ferrata. After climbing the second ridge, known as the “Frauenschreck”, we set foot on the glacier.
Now it‘s time to put on our crampons and get the ice axe ready to make better progress on the eternal ice. Slowly and steadily we climb higher, past the bivouac and up to the snow plateau. And so we are getting closer and closter to the summit cross of the Ortler…
You can find your packing list here!